It was a perfect Autumn day as I headed off from the Fairmont Resort. The resort was particularly busy with the North Face 100km race passing through today so there were runners everywhere. I could also hear helicopters overhead, but the noise and bustle quickly faded away as I descended into the beautiful fernery of Gladstone Pass.
The track follows along beside a small creek and is very muddy in places. There are a few fallen trees and small, slippery scrambles to negotiate, but it is still a fairly well-defined route. At the point where the creek starts to drop more steeply the track follows some lovely old stone steps down into the bed of the creek.
From here a lovely vista opens up with a small waterfall upstream, and a lovely green room of ferns below. At this point the track seems to disappear, until you notice an old rope indicating the route along a series of ledges and then down a beautiful staircase carved into the side of this small canyon-like section.
Below this, the creek opens into a beautiful coachwood and tree fern forest, with towering ochre cliffs above. The track crosses the creek several times, winding its way down the gorge. I am yet to find the old fire place that was built for tourists around 1900.
Last time I was here I found the track quite indistinct through this section, but it seemed more straight-forward today. Perhaps because I had less of the adrenalin that comes from exploring somewhere new on my own, and more time for quiet contemplation and observation.
I soon reached the bottom of this delighful gully and the cairn which marks the junction with the Lindeman Pass. Instead of heading east towards Inspiration Point, I decided to make the short detour to Dash’s Cave. It looks fairly unimpressive from the track, but tucked away is a cosy little camp cave with a rusted old billy containing a visitors book.
Leaving the cave I felt the lure of the unknown, pulling me towards the section of the Lindeman Pass that I am yet to explore. The track heading westwards is in good condition at this point and was beckoning me with the promise of new adventures. But today was not the day. So with reluctance I turned back eastward instead.
This section of track is quite beautiful though and offers lovely views down into the Jamison Valley. Each change in aspect brings a distinct change in vegetation type, from the moist rainforest and mossy boulders around Lawton’s Creek, to the dry, open forest below Inspiration Point.
All too soon I came to the junction with Roberts Pass and headed slowly up the hill, enjoying my last moments of solitude. I really love this track. The forest is quite open and has a light, bright feel to it, with lots of beautiful angophoras. The ascent through the cliffs is via a narrow slot, in which has conveniently been built more stone steps and a sturdy metal ladder. In times past, when the track was not maintained and the original ladders had disappeared, the access here involved climbing down a slippery cliff face while hanging onto saplings!
And so finally I emerged at the top and enjoyed the views from Moya Point.
The resort was even busier when I returned, with golfers, segway tours and a steady stream of North Face runners passing through. It’s a very strange way to end such a beautiful walk and I feel a deep connection with the conservationists who fought the development of this site in the 1980’s.
I would never have discovered this hidden gem without the dedicated work of a few individuals (Jim Smith in particular) who have passionately worked to restore these tracks and save them from obscurity. Having enjoyed their delights myself, I am also keen to share this special corner of the mountains and encourage others (with appropriate experience) to explore beyond the warning signs…
