Overland Track

This adventure has been a long time coming. I first got a taste of what the Tasmanian wilderness might be like when my Grandma gave me a subscription to Australian Geographic magazine, around the time I started high school. The photos were glorious, but it seemed very remote and unreachable at that time. Some years later, two family trips opened my eyes further to the island’s beauty, through enjoyable half-day explores in various national parks.

As I became more involved in bushwalking, the Overland Track took on a magical, mythical appeal. I relished stories from friends who enjoyed long leisurely walks in the region, and those who had braved the challenges of winter trips. And then there was the heart-warming story of good friends who met and fell in love on the track, and have now been together for more than 20 years. But somehow, it took a long time for me to make it happen – there were always other places to explore, and our adventures took us elsewhere.

Sixteen months into the pandemic, when it seemed like domestic travel might just be possible again, the idea lodged in my mind. We normally plan trips for the whole family, but it felt like it would be too much of a stretch for Clare’s 10-year-old legs, so I floated the idea of a mum and son adventure instead. At 12 years old, Alex had already surpassed me in height and had a few overnight walks under his belt. With adequate support, I thought he could manage a longer hike, although I expected it would be a challenge. I underestimated just how much he would thrive when given that opportunity!

We booked with Wilderness Expeditions, and then started training. In reality, he has been training for such adventures all his life, as we have spent hundreds (probably thousands) of hours taking the kids for walks in the bush. Alex and I set ourselves a challenge to walk all the local tracks in Veechi Stuart’s book: Blue Mountains Best Bushwalks. Some tracks were still closed due to bushfire and/or flood damage, and there were a few that we missed, but it was a good distraction for us through the long covid lockdown during the second half of the year.

We had originally booked for mid-December, but uncertainty around border restrictions was causing me a lot of anxiety, so I rescheduled for early January instead. And then came Omicron, and even greater uncertainty. But finally, eight months after hatching the plan, we made it to Cradle Valley and the start of the Overland Track.

Day 1: Ronny Creek to Waterfall Valley – 12 km

Despite a few showers during the night, the day dawned clear. We did our final gear pack and congregated under cool, overcast skies for a group briefing and introductions. In addition to myself and Alex, there were eight other participants – a group of four young people from Queensland, a mother with her two children in their mid-twenties, a lady from Melbourne travelling alone – and two extremely experienced and capable guides.

After a shuttle bus from the Cradle Mountain Visitor Centre to the start of the walk at Ronny Creek, we were finally ready to start walking around 10:30am. Our departure coincided with the rain starting to set in, which continued for the next few hours. The walking was lovely though – boardwalks through sub-alpine vegetation, forested sections beside clear mountain streams, and as we climbed steeply up to Marion’s Lookout, stunning views across Crater Lake and Dove Lake. The mist continued to roll in, adding its own beauty, but eventually obscuring our view completely.

It was a very windy, exposed walk between Marion’s Lookout and Kitchen Hut, and the shelter was packed with other walkers when we arrived. I was feeling quite cold at this point, and was slow to find food and warm clothes for both Alex and myself. Eventually the other walkers pressed on, and we were able to gather in the hut and warm up with hot drinks and sandwiches.

Surprisingly, the rain eased during our lunch stop. And while it remained cold and windy, the rest of the afternoon was relatively clear. We enjoyed stunning views into Fury Gorge as we headed towards the majestic pinnacle of Barn Bluff.

Unfortunately, we couldn’t see much of Cradle Mountain, and the poor conditions didn’t allow for us to climb to the top, but the western ramparts looked very dramatic, partially shrouded in mist.

Our next rest stop was at the “bubble” – a relatively new emergency shelter, located in a particularly exposed part of the walk. It was small, warm and dry, and had interesting acoustics, amplifying the voice of the person sitting directly opposite.

After this short respite, we ventured out for the crossing of Cradle Cirque. This was the most intense part of the day, as we were buffeted by a very strong easterly, gusting at more than 60 km/h. We had difficulty staying on our feet at times, with our back packs providing a large sail area. However, the path was smooth and flat, and we soon descended into trees again and found our camp.

The group campsite at Waterfall Valley is very sheltered, and we were lucky to be able to set up before the rain started again. Soon after 7pm, we gathered under the group shelter and enjoyed a delicious rice and vegetable dish, followed by chocolate mousse. I was sceptical about the quality of the nearby water source, as the pool looked a bit stagnant, but Ben assured me that all of the water in Tassie is good to drink, and it’s not normal practice to boil or treat water for drinking.

It was a hard first day of walking and Alex did incredibly well, with a positive attitude throughout. He was one of the fastest walkers – up the front with the leader most of the day – and then keen to help out at camp. He was very curious about the rigging system for the camping platforms, so when I suggested it was time to set up the tent, he said “I can’t wait!”. We fell asleep listening to the steady beat of rain on the roof of our tent.

Day 2: Waterfall Valley to Lake Windermere – 10 km

It rained all night, but we slept well. Not everyone was so comfortable, and the guides had a damp night under their tarp. We delayed our start due to the wet conditions and it being a shorter day, but when the weather unexpectedly cleared mid-morning, we made a break for it. Waterfalls were gushing into Waterfall Valley, and the ‘stagnant’ pool beside our camp had become a raging torrent. Everything had a fresh, clean feel.

The wildflowers on this part of the track were absolutely stunning. By pure luck, we had timed our trip perfectly. The heathlands were awash in a carpet of scoparia – with flowers in many different shades from white and yellow through to pinks and reds. And there was so much water everywhere – crystal clear pools beside the track and lots of glacial lakes.

The walking was quite easy, just small undulations and only 7 km between huts. Luckily, the weather was still fine at the halfway point and we were able to do a side-trip to Lake Will. Here we enjoyed soup and toasted bruschetta for lunch. A few of the group went for a swim, but Alex and I chickened out!

There was the odd shower during the afternoon, but lovely sunshine when we arrived at camp so we were able to dry out all our wet gear. There were lots of pademelons about, and some wombats out on the plains, but I only saw one in the very far distance. My dusk walk down to Lake Windermere was extremely peaceful and rejuvenating.

Day 3: Lake Windermere to Pelion Plains – 16 km

Despite hiding all of our snacks in the tent with us, we had a cheeky possum visit us during the night. It climbed into the vestibule and sat right on top of Alex’s backpack, but was shooed away without too much trouble.

This is the longest day on the track. Our plan was for an early start, but it was around 9:30am by the time we had breakfasted and packed up camp. It was a very varied day in terms of terrain and vegetation. There were some beautiful grassy plains in the morning, with spectacular views of the mountains to the south – Pelion West, Pelion East, Mt Oakley, Mt Ossa, Paddy’s Nut and others. For much of this section I found myself walking on my own. Alex was with the front group, and there was another group behind, but I was in my happy place – alone with my thoughts.

We also passed through ancient Gondwanan forests, with tangled, mossy trunks covered in tendrils of lichen that reminded us of the Lord of the Rings.

The light was beautiful as we crossed Pine Forest Moor. The buttongrass shone vibrantly against stormy skies, and the Leptospermum trees were so heavily laden with flowers that they looked as if they were covered in a light dusting of snow.

Our wonderful guides whipped up a couscous salad with fresh vegetables, beetroot and feta for lunch, which we enjoyed in the shade beside Pelion Creek. Then followed a long descent to the River Forth, where we reconvened for a rest and biscuits.

During the last leg of the day, Alex and I tired considerably, drifting to the back of the group. My knee was quite sore, especially on the downhills, and I limped into camp. Most of the others had another swim, but the creek was full of leeches so it didn’t sound like a very relaxing experience. Alex also found a leech underneath his gaiters that had enjoyed a good feed on him.

Thanks to food drops that had been walked in prior to our trip, we were restocked with snacks here at the halfway point. Dinner was particularly delicious – a deconstructed shepherd’s pie with passionfruit cheesecake for dessert. And how do you make cheesecake while camping? Trade secrets I’m afraid, but I believe a large bucket in the nearby stream was used as a makeshift fridge!

Alex was delighted when Ben suggested playing cards, so we finished the day learning Russian Cheat. My knee was still quite uncomfortable, and I was hoping it would be strong enough to get through the next few days.

Day 4: Pelion Plains to Kia Ora via Mt Ossa – 14 km

The weather looked promising for an attempt at Mt Ossa – Tassie’s highest peak – so we got off to an early start. Alex was quite tired after a latish night playing cards, but my knee had improved with a good rest.

We walked through some lovely forest, with a gradual ascent all the way to Pelion Gap. Notable stops were at a small waterfall on Douglas Creek, and at the Love Tree – a rare hybrid between the Pencil Pine and King Billy Pine.

On reaching Pelion Gap, we left our packs, donned day packs, and climbed part-way up Mt Doris. Our fantastic lunch spot had marvellous views of the Du Cane Range to the south. What a treat to soak up the atmosphere here with a beautiful lunch of chicken and corn soup, and bruschetta with cheese, sun-dried tomatoes and chilli tuna.

Seven of us opted to join Michael for the climb up Mt Ossa. The top was hidden in cloud, but we remained hopeful that it might clear. Initially we skirted around Mt Doris, through a stunning heath environment known as the Japanese Garden. The low shrubs have the appearance of being carefully manicured, and the track has been beautifully designed with natural rock slabs that lead a route through the sensitive vegetation.

After filling our water bottles in a tiny mountain spring near the saddle between Mt Doris and Mt Ossa, the real climb began. We headed up steeply, each person leaving a gap between the next in case of accidentally dislodged rocks. We paused at the ‘Balcony’ while Michael regaled us with stories of first ascents and highlines and precipitous bivvies.

From here, the route continued steeply up an intimidating, boulder-strewn scree slope. However, even with slightly damp conditions, the dolerite was super grippy underfoot.

Despite the top of the mountain still being in cloud, our group decided to continue on. I’m so glad we did! The mist was beautiful – quiet and atmospheric – and we saw some huge cushion plants. They look so delicate, but are quite firm to touch, and studded with exquisite white flowers. After all the hard work, it was certainly rewarding to reach the 1617 m summit and stand on the top of Tasmania, even if we couldn’t see the view.

The plod back down was also very enjoyable. The clouds started to lift, revealing views of various mountains, including the Acropolis, to the south. And the heady scent of the prolific Milligan’s lilies was quite overpowering.

After collecting our packs from Pelion Gap, it was about another 1.5 hours to camp, descending all the way. My knee was okay, but I struggled with intense pain under the balls of my feet, which is a strange new phenomenon for me.

This was by far my favourite day of the trip. The climb up Mt Ossa was such a highlight, and a really magical experience. Alex was amazing. In total, our day involved almost 900 m of ascent and descent, over a distance of about 14 km. We were revived at the end of the day with Tim Tams and hot chocolate. Dinner consisted of Mexican rice with salami, fresh coriander and corn chips, followed by stewed fruit and custard for dessert. Yum! We somehow still managed a few hands of cards that evening.

Day 5: Kia Ora to Windy Ridge – 12 km

Some of the others had a rough night, with swarms of mosquitoes, possums running amok, and one person finding a well-fed leech on their head during the night. However, Alex and I slept really well after our big day yesterday. A relatively easy day today allowed for a leisurely start.

As always, Alex was keen to take the lead position in the group, and within a few minutes of breaking camp we were treated to clear views of Mt Ossa in an almost cloudless sky. Our first rest spot was at Du Cane hut – an old trapper’s hut, once known as Windsor Castle. Alex’s curiosity about a large hole in the ground led to descriptions of the ‘Tasmanian hunting spider’, followed by much hilarity at our gullibility!

We then entered a very beautiful and ancient forest, where we were dwarfed by giant myrtle beech, sassafras and King Billy pines. While Ben stayed back to prepare our lunch, Michael led us down to D’Alton and Fergusson Falls – a very peaceful spot.

The final part of the day was a gentle climb over Du Cane Gap, and then a tricky, technical descent with lots of tree roots criss-crossing the path.

The view of the mountains from Windy Ridge hut is absolutely incredible. The Du Cane Range wraps right around, presenting a stunning skyline and a beautiful spot to watch the sunset.

Our final dinner was spaghetti bolognese, followed by pancakes with maple syrup. There were some impressive pancake-flipping antics, and Ben told us of the drama with the food drop on the first night, which we were oblivious to at the time. Thankfully, it was quickly resolved!

One of the loveliest aspects of the trip was watching Alex’s interactions with the group, and in particular our two amazing guides. They were so patient with him, answering all his questions and generously allowing his involvement in activities such as setting up the group shelter each night. This gentle mentoring and role modelling was really special, and not something I had anticipated beforehand.

I felt so sad that we had almost finished our walk. Some were yearning for hot showers and craving the comforts of home, but I just wanted to stay in that moment forever.

Day 6: Windy Ridge to Narcissus Hut – 10 km

I woke at 5am and listened to the birds, savouring the sounds of the bush. Everyone was quite efficient at packing up by this stage, so after our 6am porridge we were on our way by 7:45am. While the guides finished their chores, Alex took the lead and set a cracking pace. This section of the walk was dominated by dry sclerophyll forest, and reminded me a lot of home.

At the junction with the Pine Valley track we waited for the others, then enjoyed our final biscuit snack and quiz. The track was mostly smooth, natural surfaces today, with a gentle descent to Lake St Clair, following the path of an ancient glacier. It was a bit longer than I expected, but we arrived before 11am, in plenty of time for the 11:30am ferry. The final milestone was crossing the Narcissus River via a short swing bridge.

The ferry ride offered us lovely views of the peaks to the north and west, including Mt Olympus and Mt Ida. It was a beautiful, still and sunny day, and a pleasant way to end our trip. We congregated once more for a group photo at the end of the walk, before piling into the bus for a burger lunch at the Hungry Wombat. All that remained was the long drive back to Launceston and Hobart.

The group had bonded so well over the course of the week that it felt awkward saying goodbye. We also knew we were heading back into a much more complex world, with constantly changing rules and restrictions, more stress and uncertainty, all exacerbated by the current explosion of COVID-19 in the community. Little did we know just how challenging the next couple of weeks would be…

Epilogue

This was such a wonderful trip – all that I had hoped and more! I am so proud of Alex’s achievement in confidently tackling a six-day walk, and so grateful for the opportunity to share the experience with him. Apart from tiring towards the end of our longest days, his energy and enthusiasm never waned.

On the final day we talked about what might be next, and an overnight walk in the Grose Valley was at the top of the list. I asked if he was keen, and he said that he’d like a couple of days to rest, but then he’d be ready for more adventures. As for me, I can’t wait to come back to Tasmania. In the meantime, I will hold onto our precious memories from the Overland Track.